The Korean “yes” that really means “no”

Before we arrived in Korea I did quite a bit of reading about the culture and idiosyncrasies of the Korean culture. One which I found interesting was around the Korean tendency to not say no.

Apparently rather than saying no the Korean will offer a long-winded response about it not being the right time or perhaps later etc etc. Until recently I had not experienced this.

Let me set the scene for you. We have been trying for weeks, nearly months now, to get the landlord to have someone come and put some hooks in the walls. We have a couple of rather heavy  framed pictures that we want to ensure are hung correctly. Particularly when our walls are all wallpaper over wallpaper. Just saying but this tends to result in it coming away from the wall and not providing a sturdy hanging environment!

Anyway, I finally managed to get them to agree and when workers were here sorting out our hot water (another story) I had one agree to come the following Tuesday to hang the pictures. Excellent.

The following Monday, our housekeeper received a phone call from the landlady’s main contractor who said they couldn’t come Tuesday but would come 0930 on Friday. All sounds innocent.

When the housekeeper told me the change I straight away knew what had happened – there was no way they were coming on Friday, it was the Buddha’s birthday public holiday!! In other words they don’t want to do it but didn’t want to tell me no.

As expected no-one turned up and I am still waiting… I don’t know what the big deal is. Maybe it’s time for me to just get the drill out…

And so ends the lesson in how to say yes when you really mean no!

Ready to learn

Well I guess it was time. I have struggled through with a few Korean phrases and the general greeting but I have decided its time to take it to the next level – reading and understanding Korean.

Starting a bit later than I had hoped I would but it will definitely be an interesting experiencing. We have been doing classes for a couple of weeks now, just an hour and a half on a Monday and Wednesday evening at the Itaewon Global Center.

So far we have learnt the alphabet. This is a great start And I am already finding the world around me opening up further. I can now sound out each of the words and start to run the sounds together. At this point though while I now know what the words sound like I have no idea what half of them mean!

I am using flash cards to remember words and while it is a slow process I hope to progress. It helps that we have a great teacher, our seon saeng nim (teacher). She is very good and very patient as she explains the various sounds that the Korean Hangul makes. The only frustrating part is learning that there are several letters which are all written differently but sound the same – I guess it’s a bit like there and their or even watch (wrist) and watch (look).

Next week we start moving to sentences….

100 days in Korea – 백일 (baek-il)

Yesterday marked our 100th day in Korea. We are still alive and have actually ventured out of the house many many times in this period. Mr B is enjoying work. Miss C has settled into school brilliantly – first school play on Friday, and a random addition, I have started working!

100 is an important milestone related to a number of traditions in Korea. As you may have picked up from previous posts Korean’s like to celebrate lots of couple occasions, there is pretty much one on the 14th of every month.

Probably the most important couples occasion is the first 100 days of dating. Apparently a lot of couples also mark the 200th, 300th etc but the 100th is the most important, and from what I gather the most stressful.

It is not uncommon for males to present their girlfriends with rings or more commonly expensive luxury items, particular favourites include Louis Vuitton for baekil. The female gifts to their boyfriend could include Calvin Klein underwear and leather wallets. A fancy dinner is also on the agenda for this special day. A lot of pressure is applied to this time and over spending is almost the norm.

Baek-il celebrations. Photo courtesy of SherwinLeePhoto.wordpress.com; http://wp.me/p3t9yF-1c

Another important 100 day event is the 100th day after a baby is born, baek-il . Traditionally, because of the high infancy death rate for babies in Korea no-one outside the babies immediate family  (because how could they possibly carry any contagious germs!!) is supposed to see the baby for the first 100 days.

The hundred-day is then celebrated with a big party. This is the babies “coming out” party. A bit different in Australia – I think Miss C was about 6 days old when she had her first out and went on her first plane ride at about 4 weeks!

Meanwhile at the other end of the extreme in North Korea following the death of Kim Jong-Il at least one person was executed for drinking during the 100 days of mourning. I have also read that the use of mobile communications (who are they talking to anyway…) during this period would also see people brandished as ‘war criminals and punished accordingly.

So the question is what to do to mark our 100th day of living in the Republic of Korea?

There are enough expats here, perhaps this could be a new tradition, the question though, how to mark it…(ideas welcome!) Mr B bought home a blanket he’d been given as a gift yesterday but I am not sure that counts!

Status quo continues.

The other day I gave you a serious view of the current situation between North and South Korea. Today, in the spirit of lightning the mood, and noting that there is no new news, it’s business as usual here, I can’t help but share some of the very clever pieces people out there have put together.

There is always quick development on YouTube to satirize and this situation is no exception. If you haven’t watched it yet I highly encourage you have a look at the Kim Jong Style  video on YouTube. Very well done.

This second one has been put together by the Korean Ministry of Defence, a Defence Security Q&A. It is an official video. While it is in Korean you don’t need to understand the words to get the pictures. It’s laugh out loud hilarious. A depiction of how the South will defend itself with the help of its allies. Remember this is official.

Quote of the day I need to share with you comes from my godson who is apparently very interested in the political situation up here, he is seven. His question: “Will the Gangnam Style singing man be safe?”

Finally for those of you familiar with the Snickers ad campaign – you aren’t yourself when you are hungry, this is my favourite of the day.

With the exception of the typo this is pretty funny!

How do you solve a problem like North Korea?

I feel it is my obligation to write something about the current tensions between North and South Korea.

So, how do you solve a problem like North Korea? I feel the need to channel my inner Mother Superior from the Sound of Music and belt this out to the tune of How do you solve a problem like Maria? A lot of similarities across the lyrics I think!

On a serious note there is very clearly a heightened sense of discussion and rhetoric at present. To say that it is all fine and nothing is happening would be incorrect but to take it to the extend that some Australian media are reporting it is at the complete other end of the scale.

The Australian Defence Minister, Stephen Smith said the other day “In the normal course of events, we would do contingency planning for how we would deal with any Australian citizens who are caught up in any concern on the Korean Peninsula.” Of course this makes perfect sense.

How this turned into a headline of: Evacuation plans for 7000 Australians living in South Korea as North prepares for nuclear strike against US is beyond me. All this does is make everyone at home very nervous – particularly when they have loved here.

The key thing to note is that the travel advisory from DFAT for South Korea has not been changed. I would offer a timely reminder though that any Australian’s overseas should make sure their details are registered with Smart Traveller. Yes mum I have done ours.

While it may sound that I am adopting the South Korean attitude and being a bit blaze I will be honest in sharing that the whole situation has heightened my sensitivities; I am reading a lot to keep abreast of the situation and ensuring balance for my own benefit is applied.

My only concern is at what point will the talk stop. You can only escalate so far without actually doing something. Hopefully this doesn’t eventuate and it will all settle down soon.  For what it is worth, my personal view is that we are probably in for this talk for a few more weeks yet.

How do you solve a problem like North Korea?
How do you catch a dictator and pin him down?
How do you find a word to describe North Korea?
A flibbertijibbet! A mushroom! A fool!

Many a thing you know you’d like to tell them
Many a thing they ought to understand
But how can you help them hear?
And listen to all you say

Oh, how do you solve a problem like North Korea?
How do you keep a rogue country in control?

How do you find a word to describe North Korea?
A flibbertijibbet! A mushroom! A fool!

 

Time to head back to Korea

waiting in the lounge – what did we do before iPhones?

All good things must come to an end. Thankfully the third “thing” didn’t eventuate, unless you count Miss C getting a bit of a cold or spilling boiling water from noodles on her leg about five minutes ago…

The end of a lovely and relaxing week is now a little clouded by the news reporting of the North activities. While Mr B remains relaxed I am checking flights to Australia.

Miss C’s suggestion – they (North and South Korea) should just have a thumb war!

 

How low/high can you go?

The new Government in South Korea is settling in. In good news for President Park her Cabinet has finally been endorsed. Excellent, some governing and hard-hitting legislation action can now begin.

I was both curious and interested though by her choice for the first set of changes. As of 21 March a decree penalising “overexposure” will come into effect. The consequence? Those caught over exposing themselves could face a fine of 50,000 WON. There is also a new one for stalkers which will see them fined around 80,000 WON.

The overexposure taboo was an aspect of Korea culture I was alerted to reasonably early on. Interestingly I was given this information at the Australia Day function as Jessica Mauboy entertained the crowd in a very low-cut dress. Between you and me, the “gentlemen” in the crowd didn’t seem to mind!

So while Jessica was fortunate enough to be here before this new decree the local ladies will be in for an interesting time, particularly all those K-Pop singers who sometimes mistake a shirt for a skirt! From my observations it would appear that your skirt can be as high as you like but your top should be covered… well until now!

The decree defines overexposure as “showing too much skin while in public places or causing embarrassment or displeasure by revealing body parts that should be kept hidden”. This warrants good cartoon, pity I can’t draw!

There is an interesting link with this “overexposure” decree and President Park’s father. President Park Chung-hee banned women from wearing miniskirts that reached less than 10cm above the knee. Right now I am transported back to my Catholic high school…

I will watch with interest what other aspects of her governing President Park’s late father will have an influence on.

While on one hand the cynic in me thinks the overexposure decree will be the evenings equivalent of red light cameras and revenue raising, the other part of me is concerned that the fine for stalking is a joke at the other end of the scale. Not really a deterrent at 80,000 WON. We will see.

I wonder what will be next on the agenda?

The threat from the North?

Yesterday I had an interesting question posed to me which made me reflect. “In the current climate how safe do you feel in Korea?” My initial response was that it does remind me I don’t have a grab bag (the get the hell outta here bag) ready, but that I am also realistic that if something does happen it is unlikely I will be anywhere near home to be able to grab it.

Later yesterday afternoon I found myself further reflecting on this question and reading newspaper articles on the current climate. There is no doubt the current ROK and US exercises, Key Resolve and Foal Eagle have stirred things up although, from what I gather, no more so than usual when an exercise is underway. Then there is the new United Nations sanctions providing further restrictions on the North which was unanimously agreed to and North Korea stating that, in their view, the Armistice is now void. Adding further to the current climate is that the North is no longer talking to the South through Panmunjeom (the DMZ). Maybe I should be a little more concerned.

Then this morning I was greeted by a photo on the front page of the Korean Times which shocked me back into reality and out of any impact the North’s propaganda was having on me. If this is the military vessel the great one is using to get around in to do his inspections I think we’ll be ok. Either that or I am really becoming a local and just getting blasé about it all.

North Korean leader Kim Jong-Un waves while in a boat during his visit to the Wolnae Islet Defence Detachment in the western sector of the front line, which is near South Korea’s Baengnyeong Island: REUTERS/KCNA @ i.telegraph.co.uk

DMZ Visit – What are they looking at?

An interesting day for Mr B on Sunday, which included a trip up to the Demilitarised Zone (DMZ).

Situated 53km north of Seoul, the truce village of Panmunjeom where the 1953 Korean Armistice Agreement was signed, is the only place in the DMZ (Demilitarized zone) where  visitors are permitted.

About a kilometer from here is the Joint Security Area where discussions still take place between South and North Korea in blue huts that straddle the demarcation line.

Just talking with Mr B and looking at the photos I can’t help feeling a combination of a little uneasy mixed with interest and intrigue.

In the picture above there are a few interesting elements to point out:

1. See the group of three soldiers in the distance huddled together, they are North Korean and they are as close to the border as they can get.

2. The concrete threshold in the middle of the photo you can see running between the two huts – that is the border.

3. Notice the South Korean guard standing with half his body behind the blue building. The reason for standing this way is to reduce his body surface / target area (The US troop must have missed that briefing…) and so he can signal discretely as required.

Something that caught Mr B’s eye was this group of North Korean servicemen who were, through their binoculars, having a good old stare at him. At first he thought maybe it’s just in his direction, but no, they kept their eyes on him. Hence Mr B’s decision to take a photo of them watching him! I would love to know what they were talking about and why the fascination.

It reminds me of those caption competitions you see in the newspapers – what do you think they are discussing? Best caption gets a prize!

This is a piece of history I would never have thought we would get to experience. I hope to get up there myself sometime soon.

Who is Park Geun-hye?

The Republic of Korea’s eleventh President whose inauguration ceremony is today. Following success at the polls on 19 December 2012, Park Guen-hye follows in her fathers footsteps, a little over 50 years later, and becomes the first female President of South Korea. A historic day.

South Korea’s presidential candidate Park Geun-hye of the ruling Saenuri Party waves to her supporters upon her arrival to cast her ballot for the presidential election at a polling station in Seoul, December 19, 2012. http://www.voanews.com.

With both her parents having been assassinated it took a little while for Park Guen-hye to re-enter the spotlight but her quest for the Presidency formally commenced in 2007. At this time she was defeated by Lee Myung-bak by a narrow margin.

Park’s leadership was said to have been the key to the Saenuri Party’s victory in the 2012 Parliamentary elections. It was soon after this that Park announced her candidacy for the Presidential election.

An estimated 70,000 people will attend the inauguration today including international representations. Amongst them Australia’s Governor General Quentin Bryce.